ST. GEORGE’S CATHEDRAL

Lviv, Ukraine

This was the first of a few sketches done in Lviv, which I had learned from my Ukrainian dance teacher is a trove of classic architecture. Historically, it has been the crossroad of eastern and western Europe, deriving design inspiration from both directions. We see examples of onion domes and Greek/Roman design, often sitting side-by-side. We see unparalleled craftmanship, seemingly forgotten by today’s designers. The architectural integrity of the city has been protected. Golden arches – not welcome. This baroque-rococo designed building by Bernard Meretyn now houses the Ukrainian Greek Catholic Church. I enjoyed part of a service, with chanting, incenses and all the traditional liturgy. The church was de-commissioned during communism, but revived with Perestroika. I found St George’s in earlier google searches. When I got there on an early, overcast day (there goes my biggest helper – the sun), I walked the site searching for the best view, in vain. The complex is so massive, I couldn’t find a place from which to appreciate the whole building. I noticed a five-story building a block away, so wandered over, entered, walked up five flights of stairs, and found a room with this ideal view of the Cathedral. So I set up shop. Turns out, I was in the computer lab of Polytechnic National University, where a few students were hard at work. The professor, Igor, showed up, and invited me to leave. When I explained what I was up to, he allowed me to stay. He later pointed me to the nearby school of architecture, where I enjoyed seeing the ambitious work of students, still in the illusional dreamworld of no client, no budget and nothing gets built. But’s its part of the learning process, I guess.